If you need to replace it, I have a one way bearing tool from an RC helicopter that may help remove it from the housing if it's the right size. Might be a long shot. Usually you can remove one way bearings with a press fit tool.
That's if Shimano won't help.
That's very generous of you TJ. Thanks man, I'll keep that in mind if my tactics don't work.
Generally one way bearings are pressed out, but I've used a socket larger than the one way bearing as a support for the side plate. Then use another socket smaller than the one way bearing and use a rubber mallet to gently tap it out. Usually it takes one or two taps to loosen it out. If you're trying to remove it out of conventional reel, like a Trinidad, it definitely needs to be pressed out. You'll damage the sideplate if you try to use this method.
But! I don't think that's your problem. Theres a binding of some sort when the drag is applied. How does it feel when you turn the handle and it's 'tight'? It's a smooth or does it feel notchy?
Im going to take a shot here and say it is most likely the Right side Spool bearing thats bad!!!
I know sounds weird huh??
But when you put more pressure on the drag it adds more pressure to the side load of the Spool bearings.
The Right one is always first to rust & corrode out...
Smoothdrags.com has them cheaper then Shimano...
The Roller bearing should just tap out (some fall out) Toward INSIDE of reel..
Make sure and get it back in the right way, They are directional...
Oil only, no grease in the Roller, it needs to move to work...
While your at Smoothdrags replace the drag washers with Carbontex (Woven Carbon Fiber) Drags and a little Cals grease. Smooth as silk and last a lifetime with no worries....
Good luck.....
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If the reel is relatively new, there is NO WAY IN HELL i'd dish out 1 cent to fix a problem. Unless you have voided the warranty and the damage is due to excessive wear and tear, send it back to Shimano and let them take care of it.
Grant it, the turn around time these days are about 6 months, you won't have to deal with fixing someone else's problem. And because it seems that Shimano is now about counting pennies, you may get a phone call asking you to pay X amount for parts and labor, something that has recently changed from their 'no questions asked' policy.
I have a Core100 who's drag has been shot from the original purchase. I sent it back once only to be lectured on how the Core isn't supposed to be used in the salt (when ironically, literature INSIDE THE BOX says it's safe for use in the salt), and they returned it 2 weeks later, NOT FIXED, saying they swapped out certain parts, and gladly charged me for the return shipping.
While they were kind enough to call me to apologize for not having done anything and sent me a FedEx label to send the reel back, I mentioned that I had already wasted my time sending it back once, and that I'd send it back when I had some down time, which at this rate, may come in the year 2014, maybe.
So, if any of the advice here doesn't work, send it back to Shimano, and factor in plenty of lead time to get it back. If you used the reel as intended, you shouldn't have to be worrying about wasting your own time and money to getting it fixed.
Hm..smooth like dead weight?
I find it odd that it's smooth if it's binding somewhere. Nessie's recommendation about the right side bearing makes sense. How does it feel in free spool?
Dark Shadow:
That sucks about your situation.
The thing is I bought the reel on craigslist so I don't know if the warranty thing will still apply since I don't have a receipt. I bought the reel at the beginning of the year and hasn't given me any problems until recently. The reel is still usable and the drag seems to work fine (since I was catching fish with it this past weekend) It's only the extra tension while reeling. The more I investigate, the more I think it's a bearing.
That Dang Guy:
I also think it might be a bearing just have to find which one. While in free spool it does spin ok but I think it should be spinning more. The tensions is really only felt on the handle when the drag is buttoned down. The tighter the drag, the more tension there is.