Tip of the Week for 7/26/99 :For those of you who fish out of their own boats, here's some advice as summer heats up. Use some sense out there. It's a real bad move to drive across another vessel's stern, anchored or not. If anchored, it's most likely running a chum line and the anglers have worked real hard to get fish to come up it. By driving across it, you're putting down their bite--scaring off their fish for those who didnt understand the aforementioned. If moving, see if they have trollers out for the same reason, not to mention cutting off some $10-50 lures. Keep a considerate distance from any boat or you'll end up being yelled at or having some jigs tossed at you (which is behavior I do not condone). Also, fish for fish, not for boats--don't just go chasing boats down because they're stopped, find your own birds, jig strikes, or breezing fish--that's way more rewarding than following the fleet or horning in on a private boat. Have fun and don't make bad decisions that could endanger your boat and your lives.
fongster
Title=Please read!
Name=S ray
Date=7/10-11/99
Message=Common courtesy good news and bad news
Good news is the fishing has been A+, bad new is boat rage. It’s been a great weekend for fishing. Fished local area ( Pt loma to Torrey Pines) area all weekend. Hundreds of cuda (all released) and a handful of very nice yellowtails (all eaten). Everything was perfect. Hope all who fished had a great time. Just one request and hopefully if you read this and it doesn’t apply you just smile and agree, the ocean is big enough for you to pass by another boat without cutting off lines. We can all try it. Not so damn close. When you see a boat drifting or fishing make sure you give enough room when passing. Twice this weekend boats passing to close cut me off. We all see bird works and we all get very excited but use a little common sense and courtesy. We will all benefit from it.
Title=capt,so cal fishing boat
Name=disapointed
Date=071099
Message=next time your crew throws weights n lures at boats you might think about the stiches you put in the 78 year old mans ear on sat 071198 that was very professional
Title=SO CAL/DISAPPOINTED INCIDENT REPLY
Name=fongster
Date=7/19/99
Price=free
Message=Just saw your post here. Putting something of such a serious nature here was a waste---you should have immediately radio'd the CG about those actions! Or called the landing after to notify them-- Now in fairness to the boat, what caused them to do this? Did you drive across their stern, or drift so close they could reach you with their arsenal? I wasn't there, so I cant comment. What they did was uncalled for, but perhaps you egged it on. You should post your boats name and real name to be taken seriously. Like I said, radio the CG, and be aware of your own actions.
Title=Throwing at other boats
Name=Terry Moore
Date=7/21/99
Message=The process of throwing heavy or sharp projectiles at other individuals at sea is called felony assault to commit grevious injury. If you have witnesses, and you may be surprised at the support from passengers on the party boat, you can call in the Coast Guard, and with their assistance, make a citizen's arrest on the individual(s) involved. I have been on party boats where this has happened, and I will not go back if the crew encourages or is part of this process. They're risking their livelihood in a futile attempt to express their anger. The proper solution is to coordinate the boat numbers with the fleet, and if the small boat is indeed inside of your legal clearance of anchor space, multiple complaints made to the Coast Guard will make their life miserable. The Feds have lots of money, and once you point them, they're hellhounds on the loose.
Title=Fishing or disturbing or people
Name=Tom
Date=12/1/99
Message= What ever happened to the day's when you went fishing and your dad told you, "You have to be quiet or the fish won't bite." Have you ever gone to one of the local lakes and you are enjoying the quiet and the beauty of the lake? When out of the blue some joker shows up with a boom box or a loud radio pulls up aside of you and disturbs your fun just so he can listen to some so called music that has a four letter word in it you wouldn't or shouldn't say in front of your mother much less the women and children that are fishing at the lake. What ever happened to respect? I think respect got thrown out the window. The owners or managers of the lake should not allow loud music to be played at anytime. The problem is they are afraid to say something to the people, it might offend them or they might not come back and spend money at there lake. What about the other people it offends? Maybe the rest of us don't count.
Tip of the Week for 3/20/2000 Tip of the Week for 8/2/99 Thought you might like a short and sweet tip: Tip of the Week for 12/4/2000 Tip of the Week for 6/23/97 : As soon as you land your catch, cut the gill line approx. 1 inch below the lower jaw. This allows the fish to bleed and drains a lot of the blood from the meat. Tip of the Week for 12/1/97 : Lots of anglers don't realize how to correctly clean fish like bonito and regulate them to bait status but once you've done it right, you'll find it's every bit as good as fresh tuna and some years much more available, I'm sorry to say. Bonito, Yellowtail, and several other related fish have a strip of dark meat that runs along the lateral line at the centerline of the body cavity. This dark meat is where the strong taste comes from that so many don't like. By simply trimming out those narrow strips, that strong taste is removed and the remaining meat is as delicious as any you've had. Well, maybye not like fresh albacore or swordfish, but it's up there. Also, the dinner table seems a much more fitting end for a fish that puts up such a good fight when hooked. Thanks, Steve P. Tip of the Week for 8/7/2000 Tip of the Week for 10/12/98 : When cleaning fish, cut the stomach open and examine what the fish has been eating. This will give you a good idea what type of bait to use next time. Tip of the Week for 9/1/97 : Before you go fishing, be sure to thoroughly check the condition of your equipment, especially the line and drag washers. If the line is old or has frays or nicks, change it. If your drag is sticky, clean or change the washers. If you happen to hook something big, you'll be glad you did. Tip of the Week for 3/23/98 : Closely inspect the guides on your fishing rods from time to time. If there are any cracks in the silicon carbide or aluminum oxide rings, or grooves in the metal rings, have them replaced immediatley. These little rough spots can cut your line causing you to lose that world record fish you just hooked. Tip of the Week for 3/27/2000 Tip of the Week for 9/22/97 : Keep some Super Glue and some nylon thread in your tackle box. If something should happen to your equipment while fishing, you can use these things for a "quick fix" to hold it together for the rest of the day. Tip of the Week for 7/24/2000 Tip of the Week for 3/13/2000 Tip of the Week for 8/9/99: HERES A QUCIK TIP THAT WILL SAVE A LOT OF HEADACHES WHEN CHANGING YOUR USE MONOFILAMENT LINE. FIRST REMOVE AND PROPERLY DISPOSE OF YOUR EXISTING LINE. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DISPOSE OF YOUR OLD LINE IN THE WATERS YOU AND OTHERS MIGHT BE FISHING. THE TRASH CAN IS THE PROPER PLACE. WHEN READY TO RESPOOL, SIMPLY PUT THE NEW SPOOL OF LINE IN A CONTAINER OF COOL WATER WITH AN OPEN TOP AND LARGE ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE SPOOL OF LINE FREELY. ONCE THIS IS DONE FILL THE CONTAINER UNTIL HALF OF THE SPOOL IS COVERED WITH WATER. THEN TIE TO REEL SPOOL WITH NEW LINE COMING OFF SPOOL TO REEL FROM TOP OF SPOOL TO REEL. THIS WILL ALLOW THE LINE TO BE PLACED ON THE REEL IN THE PROPER MANNER AND NOT REVERSED. THIS WILL NOT ONLY SAVE IN THE NUMBER OF BACKLASHES AND TANGLES BUT WILL ALSO HELP AVOID OVERFILLING THE SPOOL ON YOUR REEL. PRACTICE CATCH AND RELEASE AT ALL TIMES AND TIGHT LINES TO ALL. DAVE RECESS@HIGHWAYS.NET Tip of the Week for 3/15/99 : For those of you who put on a Rooster tail spinner and decided to troll with it, here's a tip to take all of the twist out of your line. While traveling to your favorite fishing spot, drop the line and rod tip into the water and put your reel in freespool. Let all of the affected line out and troll it around for awhile without anything attatched to the end. Your line will eventually untwist and become straight again. Title=Leaders
Name=JB
Date=1/3/00
Message=Do you want "wind-on" leaders for BIG fish? Or are you talking about standard coastal fishing? Tip of the Week for 8/25/97 : When fishing with bait, I have found Bronze hooks to be superior to others and they're also cheapest to buy. Because they're dark, they don't reflect sunlight and seem to get bit more. The softer metal also allows them to be sharpened easily. The best thing is that if you release a lot of fish like I do, you know that sometimes the fish can swallow the hook deeply. With bronze hooks you can cut the line and release the fish knowing that the hook will rust out in a few days. Title=Circle Hooks
Name=Terry Moore
Message=Eagle Claw and several others have the circle hooks in various sizes and wire gages. For anchovies, a 2/0 light wire hook is adviseable. The size of the hook appears to run smaller than conventional hooks. Turner's and most of the advertisers in WON carry them, but this time of year they're bought out as quickly as they hit the racks. Visit the Eagle Claw website, and check out the sizes, or go to a Quality FISHING TACKLE SHOP (NOT BIG 5), and get an idea of brand, model, and size you want, and give them the full price in advance for your order. Otherwise, use a catalogue or online source. Useable sizes are in extreme demand right now, so you'll have to work to get some before November. Good Luck. The fishmann.
Tip of the Week for 1/31/2000 Tip of the Week for 1/31/2000 Tip of the Week for 12/14/98 : heres a tip to those of you out there having trouble using the new baitcasting type reels. when preparing to cast, following the steps below will reduce "backlashing" and associated headaches. with very little practice your backlash problems will be eased if not cured. baitcasting equipment takes a little effort but the rewards are worth it. PRACTICE CATCH AND RELEASE FOR OUR FUTURE. DAVE(recess@celnetwest.com) Tip of the Week for 10/18/99 I've noticed some anglers complain about rub burns on their thumbs when they cast a conventionalreel. Either they have soft skin, thumbing the line while it's zingin' out, have a graphite spool, or trying to control a warp-speed spool. My tip is that they should get themselves a leather thimble. You can make your own, or buy a ready-made one at any sewing craft shop. They work great and last a long time. Tip of the Week for 10/6/97 : When the fishing gets tough and nothing seems to be working, try using some lighter pound test line. You may lose some fish but you will probably get bit more often. Tip of the Week for 3/6/2000 Tip of the Week for 10/20/97 : When trolling for fish and nothing seems to be biting, try changing lure colors and techniques. Sometimes aggressive fish like the lures right behind the boat. Boat-shy fish will often only grab a lure that is set back further. Changing trolling speeds and depths also have effects. Nothing ever works good consistantley. The behavior patterns of fish can change daily and even throughout the day. Tip of the Week for 12/7/98 : When setting up to troll for saltwater or large freshwater species try using the "tripper" rubberband. Once lure is dropped back to desired distance from boat, simply bring line straight down pole to area near handle of reel. At that point attach a rubberband to line and loop to handle of reel. Advantage is this- Once fish strikes lure rubberband tripper will break allowing lure to fall back on fish. This in turn allows fish to complete strike most times. Should fish drop lure, more often than not, the split second fall of the lure will appear as an injured bait fish resulting in second strike. You won't believe the slamming strikes you'll get. (Size of rubberband depends on lure size and speed trolled) PRACTICE CATCH AND RELEASE. DAVE (recess@celnetwest.com) Tip of the Week for 2/1/99 : Many fish are never hooked when fishing lures, I'll use trout as an example (as those are the fish I've targeted lately). One, sharpen your hooks. There's a lot of line stretch between you and your fish which means the points must penetrate with little pressure. Secondly, when you get bit, keep reeling, don't just swing. The trout or any fish for that manner, was pursuing the lure and when it strikes it puts a slack into the line because it overruns the lure. When you only swing, it's merely taking the slack out of the line--there's no force left to set the hook. Instead, keep reeling and only swing when the rod tip bends. I initially learned this fishing swimbaits for calicos. It's the same for fishing iron jigs, too. You should see better hook up success with this. Tip of the Week for 4/27/98 : Use the flat part of a swimbait's tail to smear your fish scent (hot sauce, smelly jelly, etc.) on the sides of the lure. This keeps your fingers clean, now they won't slip of the reel handle when you get slammed. Thanks, David Fong Tip of the Week for 6/22/98 : When using stinky baits such as mackerel, powerbait, etc. rub a little vaseline into your hands before you go fishing. This helps to wash off the smell easier when you're done. Title=ANSWER: WADERS FOR JIM
Name=THE FISH GUY
Date=2-8-00
Message=Where are you going to fish Jim? That's the question you need to ask yourself. I say this because if you are going to fish down here you should probably get the breathable type, but if you are going to fish the Sierras, you will definately want neoprene. Neoprene acts as an insulator to keep you warm in cold water, but it also works as an oven if you are walking around in 80 degree temperature. The breathable waders have no insulating factor at all so you are going to have to bundle up with a lot of bulky clothes to keep warm. My advise is to buy 3mm neoprene wades. I have found them to be just right for cold water and warm air temperatures.
Title=Answer to "Waders"
Name=Leaping Gnome
Date=02/09/00
Message=Jim, The breathable waders are good if you are going to be fishing allot in warm weather conditions in mild temp water. But up here in the Sierras I stick to Neoprene for the cold water most of the year. Good luck to you! Gnome Title=Wader question: THANKS
Name=jim
Date=2/10/00
Message=Lane, Fish Guy, & Gnome, Thanks for the info and recomendations on waders. Due to their versatility, we've decided to go with the breathable type. We will mostly be fishing in warmer climates, but would like to be able to pack them into the sierra wilderness lakes. We will try layering to keep warm. Tip of the Week for 11/15/99 To ensure angler safety while casting, always watch the rod tip, this will alert you to anyone who might be crossing your casting path. Adding this simple step will keep you on the water and out of the emergency room. Tip of the Week for 6/12/2000 Tip of the Week for 8/14/2000 Tip of the Week for 10/4/99 Three blondes are sitting by the side of a river holding fishing poles with the lines in the water. A Game Warden comes up behind them, taps one of them on the shoulder and says, "Excuse me, ladies, I'd like to see your fishing licenses."
Tip of the Week for 3/8/99 : FOR ANYONE FISHING THE LOCAL REEFS AND/OR OFFSHORE AREAS HERES A TIP . SINCE WE'VE ALL BEEN VICTUMS OF THE EVER GROWING POPULATION OF SEALS AND SEA LIONS, HERE'S A GREAT TIP ON HOW TO GET RID OF THEM WITHOUT UPSETTING THE LOUD MOUTHED "DO GOODIES". THOSE SAME "DO GOODIES" WHO MISTAKENLY BELIEVE PROTECTING THEM IS THE "THING TO DO". WHEN BOTHERED BY THESE OVERSIZED PESTS, SIMPLY DROP A COUPLE OF WATERPROOF LOUDSPEAKERS OVERBOARD AND PUT THE WAYNE NEWTON SONG "DANKESHANE" ON THE PLAYER. TURN THE VOLUME UP AND VOWALLA THE LITTLE BUGGERS DISAPPEAR IN AN INSTANT. KEEP SMILIN AND COME ON SUMMER! ALWAYS PRACTICE CATCH AND RELEASE.
I have fished rivers and streams for the better part of my life and have read many articles about them. Here is one of my little secrets to help conceal the fact that you are there.
As everyone knows, every fisherman is striving for the lack of noise. To help in that endeavor, I remove the clicker on the reel drag. This allows you to pull line off your reel or fight fish without the noise of the drag giving away the fact that you are there. William
To keep fish boxes, ice chests, bait tanks, and even tackle boxes less damaging to your olfactory senses (Ie. less stinkie), put a charcoal briquette in the toe of a discarded sock or panty hose. It will not only absorb smells but also protects tightly closed areas from rust by absorbing moisture. larryburgess@Hotmail.com
why do I always outfish the guys ? cuz ya gotta think how can ya be smarter than the fish, thats why( just kiddin boyz,dont have a cow man). If you smoke.or have handled anything wierd, like vicks, booze,bug spray etc. always wash your hands with scent killer before baiting your hook. ( I do regardless of what ive been doing) the predators we are after have keen senses of smell. and if you smelled like any of the items I listed.. I most likely.. wouldnt bite ya either * wink *.
Just a thought
the fishin lady
SEVERAL YEARS AGO, MY GRANDFATHER AND I USED TO SPEND EVERYDAY, EVERY SUMMER FISHING. MY GRANDFATHER, BEING OLD MILITARY, WAS ALWAYS VERY DETAILED IN LIFE, BUT EXTREMELY SO WHEN IT CAME TO FISHING. HE ALWAYS MADE THE BEST FISH DISHES, AND LARGELY BECAUSE THE WAY HE PREPARED THE FILETS, AND NOT SO MUCH IN THE COOKING AS MANY WOULD BELIEVE, PEOPLE ALWAYS ASKED FOR HIS RECIPES, BUT THEY ALWAYS SAID THEY COULDN'T GET IT RIGHT. SO ENOUGH OF THE STORY TELLING IT'S REALLY NO BIG SECRET FOR SOME BUT TO OTHERS IT MAY HELP SOLVE SOME PROBLEMS. THIS HELPS WITH BIG FISH A LOT. THIS PROCESS WILL GET THE OVERLY FISHY TASTE, MUD TASTE, ECT... IT WILL MAKE VERY LITE, WHITE FILETS AFTER YOU FILET THE FISH, SOAK THEM IN SALTED ICE-WATER OVER NIGHT, NOT TO MUCH SALT. THE NEXT DAY YOU WILL SEE A DARK SIDE FROM WHERE THE SKIN USE TO BE, AND A GRAY TINGE FROM THE OIL. BASICALLY TRIM ALL THE GRAY (OIL) UNTIL YOU HAVE SOLID WHITE FILETS, THIS WILL BE A SMALL AMOUNT, AND A LITTLE LARGER FOR BIGGER FISH, BUT IT WILL BE WELL WORTH THE EFFORT. ALSO, JUST ANOTHER TIP FOR THOSE WHOM DON'T ALREADY KNOW, THAT IF YOU COOK A FISH IN LEMON JUICE, IT WILL BREAK DOWN THE MEAT AND MAKE IT SOFT OR MUSHY. IT BEST TO PUT LEMON ON AFTER COOKING
If you find yourself breaking off a lot you might want to examine the rod you are using. Most of the time it is either that your line is frayed from the previous fish or that your knot if just faulty. But there is always something that most anglers overlook-----the eyes on the rod. Many times the eyes have cracks and nicks, therefore causing cuts and frays on your line. An easy way to check for these problems is to take a Q-tip (cotton swab) and run it in the eye, twirling it around and pulling it out. If any cotton sticks on the eye that means you have a crack and the eye must be replaced. Make sure the eye is dry and clean before doing this though. Make sure to check all the eyes. Jerry
When trout fishing most people pester a large trout trying to be the one to land it,my first experince with a large 26 1/2 inch brown trout was,i knew people bothered it to much,then he found cover,i spied him,i kept quiet about it and left him alone for three weeks,then one morning,i went to try for him,i fished for a while then thought he won't be ready,i walked away and went back,i made one cast and to my suprise he took it,i landed him and was so shocked how big he was,so it pays to be patient and don't hound them to death.
Fishing Tip: When fishing plastics, whether swimbaits or grubs, always remember to put the bait on straight. After hooking the bait back it off 1/4 of an inch and put a dab of Krazy glue on the jig head and push the plastic back up the hook. The glue will set right when it hits the water so you don't have to wait for it to dry. This will greatly increase the life of your plastics and save you quite a lot of money. Most of the time after 10+ casts and a fish or two the plastic is usually barely hanging on the hook, but with the glue it will stay on till the fish destroy the bait. Jerry
How many times have we heard or read this "We stopped on a great school of
Yellowtail or tuna and we caught 6 and lost at least 15." All to often 90% of
the lost fish were lost because the drag was not set correctly, and you can
ask any deckhand or Caption and they will agree. Setting the drag is a very
simple thing to do but most fisher persons will pull the line and say "OK
that feels good" but line manufactures have done studies and found that most
are set 50% to 100% over what they should be. A good rule of thumb is to use
33% of the line test, this also includes the rod drag. To do this lets take
100 LB test line. Set up your rig and attach it to a scale then adjust the
drag to 33 LBS as you pull on the scale. That's it! Note; If this sounds like
to much work then just ask any deckhand and they will be glad to help you and
you will land more fish if you do.
Tight lines
Bill
For the local stuff, if you know how to tie a hook on, you know how to tie a leader. If I'm using a leader locally, it's becasue I want SMALLER line than my reel has and I use a swivel as the terminal point. Simply "snell" the swivel at both ends and tie on your hook. Or go to your favorite tackle store and ask them for a Knot book. Lots of fishing magazines show some fancy knots and so does WON from time to time.
I'll try to explain my usual knot verbally - but it'll take a LOT of imagination on your part to "see" it:
Thread the line thru the hole of the swivel about 12" in length. (The 12" length is called the "TAG" end. I'll call the other side the "Return" line. This will identify which piece of line I'm talking about. The "return" end goes to your reel.)
Lay the Tag end back on the return end (the swivel is now hanging in the loop), then double back the TAG to the swivel. This makes now makes a loop in the TAG. MAke the loop about 1.5" long (above the swivel). Holding the swivel steady in hand, and the top of the loop (farthest away from the swivel) in the other (This takes some practice to get your fingers on one hand to do different things!), Begin to wrap the TAG around the loop AND the return end back down towards the swivel. I'd wrap it 6~8 times for coastal stuff. KEEP THE WRAPS TIGHT, AND DON"T LET THEM CROSS OVER EACH OTHER. After 6~8 turns, slip the TAG BETWEEN the 2 lines, then back up to the TOP of the loop, and thru the loop.You should have 6"~8" hanging out the loop. KEEPING everything snug, I lick the loops to get them slick, then pull the TAG end away from the swivel, but keep your fingers pinching the winds as much as possible to keep them from rolling over on each other, and pull the TAG SNUG to tighten the knot to the swivel. Cut the tag off close to the knot.
When this is done correctly, the winds will coil up the return line and snug down tight to the swivel. It will look like a hang-man's noose when done.
You can use this knot on all 3 tie points - Reel to swivel, swivel to leader, leader to hook.
For HEAVY lines - do the same type knot, but DOUBLE the line before going thru the eye of the swivel or hook, be sure the double line in the eye doesn't get crossed, wrap carefully so the warps don't get twisted, and wrap at least 10~12 wraps.
WIND-ON leaders are very different. Get a book for those.
Hope my words paint a picture well enough! If knot, sorry!
JB
Thanks
MIke
That's because they work!!!! I use them exclusively now (fresh and salt water) and won't ever go back to conventionals. Just have to remember NOT TO SWING !!!!
Jeff
Here's an easy tip anyone can do. As far as fishing for yellowtail or tunas, Owner has come out with Mutu and Mutu light circle hooks. For my money I use these exclusively, and are in my opinion the best hooks around. I used circle hooks all this year and lost few fish from chewing through the line. You don't get to swing hard on a fish, but the chances of landing it are good. Keep up the good work.
Richman
Circle hooks
Posted by John Butler on June 30, 2000 at 15:15:28:
These hooks were designed to "set" in the corner of the mouth of a fish (big fish) that is running AWAY from you at fast
speed. Catfish - in my opinion - are not the kind of fish that you want to spend money on circle hooks for and I believe you
will catch LESS with them.
If you think about BIG tuna, they have sharp teeth and swim hard and strong. When they swallow a bait with a circle hook,
the hook could very well be in its throat in a nanosecond. Now you have the line raking across its teeth. If you have light
line and the fish is a bruiser, you will be sawed off. Circle hooks don't set in the throat due to their design - the point is
turned IN towards the shank so the bait will pull up to the fish's throat. Now that bait/hook is back in the mouth. Most fish
that are not swimming hard and fast (on attack) will simply spit the hook when they feel it pulled back to the mouth.
TUNA on the attack are swimming FAST - when the circle hook is in its throat and the slack is out - the line goes up the
throat, out the mouth and is 99% of the time pointed straight back towards the tail. When the hook is pulled up to the corner
of the mouth, the line's pull (toward the tail) turns the hook 180 degrees and OPENS the hook, allowing the corner of the
mouth to slip between the point and shank, and the point digs into the inner wall of the mouth corner.
Catfish don't haul a$$ and attack food. They lollygag along looking for crap on the botton. When they find it, they slurp it up
and swallow and lollygag on. No real pressure here to turn the hook into the corner of the mouth before the cat senses the
hook dragged back to the mouth and reacts by spitting the hook.
JB
Ami--circle hooks
Posted by fongster on October 13, 2000 at 11:43:40:
Congrats for being a fisherperson! I know many women who kick the guys butts, inshore and on multiday, big tuna trips. In regards to circle hooks, one hooks the fish by letting the fish set the hook itself. When bit, line slack is taken out by the fish swimming off and the angler reeling it out too. The rod is simply lifted until it 'loads up' and the hook tends to set in the corner of the mouth due to it's protected tip and barb. These hooks are good because they prevent deep hooking of fish--good for catch and release as well as less bite-offs because of the line rubbing on teeth. Swinging to set will most likely result in not hooking the fish. Mostly these are used on white seabass, tunas and other bluewater fish.
Ami - Swining hard . .
Posted by JB Boat builder on October 17, 2000 at 13:24:35:
Ami:
To "Swing hard" means to set the hook by pulling UP on the rod in an aggressive swing. When in freespool and running a sardine with a ragular hook (not a circle hook), when the fish takes the bait, depending on the size of the bait and what is being caught all around you (little football size tuna, or 30~40 pounders) and judging by the way the fish is pulling, you make a count to 3, or 5, or 10 (to judge when a small fish has fully eaten a large bait - i.e. hook is now in the fish's mouth), letting fish take out ALL the slack, then put the reel in gear and set the hook by swinging the rod UP ("swinging hard") - DO NOT LET THE ROD DOWN after setting the hook - START CRANKING - and REEL the rod down. But with a circle hook, if you "swing hard" you'll most likely pull the hook right out of the fish's mouth because the point is turned in toward the shank. It's designed that way so when the fish takes the bait and swallows it, when the slack is OUT of the line the bait and hook is pulled back into the fish's mouth. The line is following the fish so when the hook gets pulled to the edge of the mouth, the line is pulling the hook's shank toward the fish's tail - TURNING the hook around the corner of the fish's mouth, which "OPENS" the hook. This is when the narrow edge of the fish's mouth slides between the shank of the hook and the point and when it reaches the bottom of the hook (the "u" part) it sets in the corner of the fish's mouth with the shank OUTSIDE the mouth and the point inside - so no teeth are on the line ripping it up. Circle hooks were originally designed for BIG tuna on long range boats to increase the odds of hooking the fish in the corner of the mouth and no grating the line across sharp teeth. BIG tuna take a long time to bring to gaff so if you're not hooked in the corner of the mouth, you're most likely going to get bit off - heart break. I hope this is not an insulting explanation - wasn't intended to be. JB
Here's another tip that some of you may have forgot about. Actually it's a product! It's called a Cast-a-Bubble. The one that I'm referring to is the medium size, about 2" long and egg shaped. These sliding, water-filled bobbers are great for everything! They slidedirectly onto your line like an egg sinker and can be held in place with either a swivel, split shot or those new Carolina keepers. Having trouble "flylining" those all too small anchovies upswell AND into the wind? Try sliding one of these up your line, say 5', hold it in place with a small split shot and cast out. Now you're in the ZONE, reaching out to those fish that just want to eat the chum but won't come to the boat. Like fishing striped bass with Sluggos but you just can't cast it far and fast enough to keep up with a quick moving school? Slide on a cast-a-bubble and fire away! You'll be able to reach them as well as add a bit of splash or "spit" to your presentation as well depending how much water you put into the bobber. P.S. This combo is unbelievable for local barracuda too, especially when they are reluctant to bite the usual iron jigs like Tadys, et al. While all of you Sierra trout guys know about this ingenious little device, have you ever filled it completely full to where it sinks s-l-o-w-l-y? Forget the the dry flies and tie on a big juicy streamer like a Wooly Bugger and fish top to BOTTOM for QUALITY trout not those little guys that just dimple the surface! Not only will you catch more fish but you'll get better quality fish. The other factor here is to use a minimum 7' leader of 2# test. 7' may seem long but it does make a BIG difference. It helps to use a long rod. I use a G. Loomis SR841-2 rod which is 7' long and very light. This length rod helps keep your fly off the ground and out of trouble. Hope this helps.
Glenn
Signed, steve.
Fishing Fluorocarbon
Posted by Mola Joe on July 03, 2000 at 18:36:34:
I started using the stuff down in Mexico years ago, when all you could get was the 100lb test and up leader line. I could
step up to a 200 lb leader and still have no trouble getting the striped marlin to eat it. Lately I've been using it for corbina
and with the abrasion resistance, it works better than anything I have ever used in the surf. One thing though, I read that
there is a big difference between the cheaper kind of fluorocarbon they just came out with and the true fluorocarbon leader
material that cost a arm and a leg. The new stuff is made to go on your reels, and I find it hard to believe that for less than
half the price of the true fluorocarbon, your getting the same line.
Before going out for a long relaxing fish expedition, coat the outside of the boat with vasoline. the reflection of the sun on the glossy sides of the boat lure the fish to you.
jacob vah howser
--fongster
Have you ever seen someone with a landing net really screw up netting a fish or lose the fish completely?
First of all don’t go wading in the water if you don’t have to. Don’t be batting or trying to catch the fish with the net. You already have the fish caught, now all you have to do is land it. Wear the fish out and then bring the fish to you. When you have the fish close enough and have control of the fish then and only then put the net into the water and ease the fish over the net if you can. If you have a large fish, it can be tough to net the fish hold the rod and bring the fish in by yourself. If you let someone else net the fish tell him to stay out of the water and not to put the net in the water until you tell him to. If he doesn’t want to listen to you get someone else or do it yourself. By putting the net in the water too soon or stepping into the water you will scare the fish and it will take off like a bat out of hell. The fish realizes that it is fighting for it’s life and the survival instinct will kick in and the fish will lunge and could possibly break the line. Once the fish is tired and you are ready to have the fish netted tell the person with the net to go to the edge of the water and place the net in the water and if possible let it lay on the bottom if you can’t lay the net on the bottom try to hold it deep enough in the water so that the fish can be brought over the net, then you can ease the fish over the net. When the fish is over the net lift straight up. This has worked great for me for over 50 years. I have seen more large fish lost by someone not using good netting techniques then you would ever believe. If you beg to differ on my approach of netting fish please email me at lerbix@netzero.net
Im interested in putting a bait system in my boat-a 18 foot B. Whaler. Since, I am finacially challenged, I was thinking of the trash can style-Ive seen this done before. How do I do it? Should I get thru hull piping? Ill upgrade later. What do you guys use? Thanks for any help!
Steve L.
Hi Steve: I use to own a 19ft Baja Bayrunner and I used the trash can like you mentioned. Yes I recommend the thru hull intake, because this way your pump intake will always be in the water.If you just put it over the side who know what happens to the hose while your underway and if the pump doesn,t get any water....there goes the pump.As far as the trash can goes,I was lucky to find one that had had a base to it and it had wheels, I removed the wheels so all I had was a base. I drilled some holes and countersunk the predrilled holes to accept the lag bolts.My boat had plywood floors and easy access to the hull so I screwed some 2x4's under the floor to accept the lag bolts then I attached the base to the floor and then I put the trash can on top and while you pushed down and turned it to the right it locked in so it didn't slide all over the place.Now for the over flow we just put the hose in the transome which had drainage holes in it already and that worked very well just make sure when you drill your hole in the trash can for the overflow try to make it to match the height of where it is going over the side..I hope this wasn't to confusing and let me how it came out or if you have any other questions...One other thing let a pro drill into your boat it's worth the price and peace of mind since that's what the do for a living...good luck and tight lines
Bent Rod 1
Hold on there!
Your boat is foam filled so you have NO room for a pump below decks unless you make MAJOR changes. Thru hull fittings are made to keep everything BELOW the water line - especially the PUMP.
1. Contrary to the other report, you will NOT damage a centrifugal pump if it is run DRY. 99% of all pumps used in bait systems are this type. It is only the self-priming type that you can hurt over an extended period of time running dry.
2. The FILL-RATE of the tank is of utmost importance. The LAW of thumb is 7~10 minutes to fill the tank. Anything over or under will kill the bait - FACT. So you must be able to choke down the flow to achieve this fill rate. AND - you need to have TWO fill rate settings! One rate based on sitting still (fishing - NOT running) and one for Running because the speed of the boat will increase the fill rate - so you need to choke the tank down MORE while running, then open it up while still. This is the ONLY way to keep you bait alive for the longest period of time.
3. Unless you are going to do MAJOR surgery on your Whaler below decks, I'd STRONGLY suggest NOT going thru-hull for the pick-up - there's NO POINT and you will be VERY stuck in the placement of the tank. Many pump systems are designed to be attached to the transom and they work just fine. I've made several bait systems from scratch - even the tanks. If you're strapped for cash, consider making your own tank. It's NOT that hard and it will FAR outlast a plastic or rubber can and you can probably make the whole thing for around $30 + paint + PVC and ALL material can be purchased at Home Depot. I have a drawing of a tank I made recently that I can e-mail to you if you like.
Most importantly - don't jump to quick! Do more research and take the time to visit Pacific Edge. They are bait system experts and can even show you some LOW-COST ready to go POLY systems.
"JB"
Another aspect about mounting the pump on the transom: The fill pipe that goes into the water has several ways to do it, but the way I prefer is to back-block the intake pipe so it rests flush against your transom, and position it so the bottom of the pipe extends about 1/2" below the bottom of your boat. Cut the bottom of your boat off and - no that aint right - cut the bottom of the fill pipe at a 45 degree angle with the opening facing forward. This will help in the pick up at running speeds, but it won't jam too much up it. But be SURE to back-block it the same dimension as the distance the pump places it out from the transom. I can send you a drawing of what I'm talking about if you want cuz sometimes words get a little fuzzy.
JB
JB is right on. I made a tank from a 13 gal Rubbermaid kitchen can and it holds a 1/2 scoop (I recently replaced it with a Kodiak 14 gal). Kodiak sells a tank plumbing kit (what I used) with instructions to build a 32 gal from a big Rubbermaid can with mounting base. I used an external transom mounted pump from Kodiak--it just uses a couple screws to attach and will always be in the water with no thru hulls req'd. Now that I think about it, if you don't need more than a 1/2 scoop tank, I'll sell it to you for cheap (the parts cost me about $60) It has a lid with a recessed splash guard and looks real good. All you need is overflow hose and the pump with inlet hose. say...$25
fongster
The best tip I have for fishing:
When using an open faced reel, be sure to pull your hair back. REALLY! I have very long hair, and one day while I was fishing it was windy, and my hair got caught up in the reel. This made for many great jokes with my husband's friends, but it was a very unpleasant experience.
Sincerely,
Kay Belcher
William
Can I Make it?
I just bought an 18 foot Boston Whaler with a 125 hp motor. Can I make it (and back!) to the Channel Islands or Catalina? I'll bring extra gas, but do they sell gas at Catalina? Thanks!
Steve L.
Re: Can I Make it?
Boating safety is 99% human input, 1% boat - but within reason. An 18' boston whaler is NO PROBLEM for such an adventure. I have an 18' center console that I built from scratch and it's been to catalina countless times. And YES - they sell gas at Catalina at 2 locations: Avalon fuel dock and at the Isthmus.
Know your boat, its capabilities - but more over - know your own. If you've never made the crossing or are new to boating, take a boater's safety course offered by the US Coast Guard. Learn to use a compass & chart, have at least one damn good radio (VHF), and at some time invest into a GPS. You're also REQUIRED to carry an emergency flare/gun/kit.
Make sure your batteries (2) are up to snuff and fully charged before you go. Know your fuel consumption BEFORE you go and carry at least enough for the round-trip, then top off at the island. A tow - for any reason - if you are NOT a member of Vessel Assist (AAA for your boat) will run you a minimum of $130 - and that's an HOURLY rate that starts from the DEPARTURE POINT/TIME for the VA Boat. Averages tows run between $400~$500 - EASY! So what am I saying here? Become a member of Vessel Assist BEFORE you go out in the ocean. It's less than $80 year and WELL worth it!
SORRY about the SPAM - but this is one product/service I support 10000000% and IMO - every boater should have it - unless you light your cigars with $100 bills.
Boating is a LOT of fun, until something bad/stupid happens. Then the ocean is the absolute WORST place to be. Be safe, be smart, know your limitations as well as your boat's, then have fun.
JB
In addition to JB...
Wear your PFD! I have a fishing style one--call me a bass fag, but if I go over, I'm gonna float. My wife would be real mad if I drowned. Watch the weather/wind!
fongster
Alot of boaters out there who visit local lakes with their small outboards might find that this tip will give you a little piece of mind and an added safety element.
I always carry an extra set of NEW spark plugs and a spark plug wrench with my outboard. As you all know plugs do tend to get fouled from time to time. I wrap my spare plugs and spark plug wrench in a clean rag and Duct Tape to the inside of my cowling in a safe and dry area away from any moving parts or air intake ports. I actually had to change my plugs out on the water one day.......it took about 5 minutes and I was up and running in no time.
JB in NV
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Jeff Bell
Well try this the next time your backing down a trailer:
keep your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel and when you want the trailer to go right move your hand (while on the wheel) to the RIGHT. Conversely, if you want to go to the left move your hand toward the left. This only work if your hand is on the wheel at the bottom. Try it it works and at least look like you know what your doing. Kent
"We don't have any." replied the first blonde.
"Well,if your going to fish, you need fishing licenses." said the Game Warden.
"But officer," replied the second blonde, "we aren't fishing. We all have magnets at the end of our lines and we're collecting debris off the bottom of the river."
The Game Warden lifted up all the lines and, sure enough, there were horseshoe magnets tied on the end of each line.
"Well, I know of no law against it," said the Game Warden, "take all the debris you want." And with that, the Game Warden left.
As soon as the Game Warden was out of sight, the three blondes started laughing hysterically. "What a dumb Fish Cop," the second blonde said to the other two, "doesn't he know that there are steelhead in this river?!
(recess@celnetwest.com)
